Good Friday in Burgos

I was one of those annoying early risers yesterday. I awoke at 5:30 am and started walking in the moonlight at 6 am, thanks to the headlamps of my two travel partners, my friend from Ohio and from Romania. We tried to look at the stars, but leaning back when you have 25 pounds on your back is not advisable.

We came upon a cross, which looked amazing with the full moon behind it. The path was quite rocky at this point, and I felt a bit like I was walking on the moon (not that I know what that is like). We didn't realize we were off the path until we had to duck from tree branches. Thankfully, another pilgrim walked by so we followed his light. It was then that we saw an arrow made of rocks, which we couldn't see with the tunnel vision of our headlamps.

We took a break for breakfast in the light of day and I realized why people get their days started so early. It had been a peaceful walk, though it got quite cold at dawn, and it was nice to be so far at 8 am. Within 2.5 hours, my Romanian friend and I were in Burgos. Singing kept us entertained, though as we each picked the "songs of our youth," the ten year age difference was more apparent.

I checked into an albergue above a church and was reunited with many familiar faces. I dropped my bag and went to the cathedral straight away. I toured the immense building and when I exited, a large crowd was already gathered for the Good Friday procession.

I waited 45 minutes and then an incredibly elaborate 7 Last Words started. Different organizations marched in with a crucifix. Unfortunately, with my lack of water and food that day, the sun, and perhaps the pressing crowds, I felt like I was going to faint. I have a history of fainting in European countries so I knew I had to escape. I fought it off as long as I could but had to leave before the end of the ceremony.

After food and a shower, I went to another service and then met a group of pilgrims for what we dubbed The Last Supper. A number of them were ending their Camino in Burgos, so we wanted to say farewell properly, with pinchos and wine of course! I have actually eaten things I have never dreamed, which aren't even unusual foods at all. I am just expanding my picky palette.

After dinner was another procession, which seemed to mostly be the stations of the cross. It started at 8 pm and was still making its way around the city hours later. I am glad to have experienced this display and had planned to spend an additional night in Burgos, but I am going to walk a short bit and experience Easter in a small village. I like the idea of the juxtaposition of a big city and what I imagine will be a simple service.